Coastal Storms

List of Contributors xi Series Foreword xv Introduction xvii Acknowledgments xix 1 Coastal Storm Definition 1 Mitchell Harley 1.1 Introduction 1 1.1.1 The challenge of defining coastal storms 4 1.1.2 A general coastal storm definition 7 1.1.3 Approaches to assessing coastal storminess 8 1.2 Synoptic systems and coastal storms 9 1.2.1 Tropical cyclones 9 1.2.2 Extra-tropical cyclones 10 1.2.3 Storm surge 11 1.3 Statistical approaches to identifying coastal storms 12 1.3.1 Coastal storm events from wave time-series 12 1.3.2 Coastal storm events from water-level time-series 15 1.3.3 Indicators of coastal storm severity 16 1.4 Conclusion 18 References 19 2 Hydrodynamics Under Storm Conditions 23 Xavier Bertin, Maitane Olabarrieta and Robert McCall 2.1 General introduction 23 2.2 Storm surges 23 2.2.1 Introduction 23 2.2.2 Governing equations 24 2.3 Hydrodynamics of the surf zone during storms 31 2.3.1 Introduction 31 2.3.2 Longshore currents 31 2.3.3 Bed return flows 32 2.3.4 Infragravity waves 33 2.3.5 Swash zone dynamics 35 2.4 Conclusions and future challenges 38 Acknowledgements 38 References 39 3 Sediment Transport Under Storm Conditions on Sandy Beaches 45 Troels Aagaard and Aart Kroon 3.1 Introduction 45 3.2 Morphological consequences of coastal storms 46 3.3 Sediment transport processes during storms 48 3.4 Observations of sediment transport on the upper shoreface during storm events 53 3.5 Observations of sediment transport on the lower shoreface during storm events 58 3.6 Conclusions 60 Acknowledgements 60 References 60 4 Examples of Storm Impacts on Barrier Islands 65 Nathaniel Plant, Kara Doran and Hilary Stockdon 4.1 Introduction 65 4.2 Barrier island response to storms 66 4.3 Quantifying the changes due to specific storms 70 4.4 Resilience 75 4.5 Summary 76 Acknowledgements 77 References 77 5 Storm Impacts on the Morphology and Sedimentology of Open-coast Tidal Flats 81 Ping Wang and Jun Cheng 5.1 Introduction 81 5.2 Sedimentologic characteristics 83 5.3 Erosion-deposition processes and morphodynamics of open-coast tidal flat 88 5.4 Conclusions 96 References 96 6 Storm Impacts on Cliffed Coastlines 99 Sue Brooks and Tom Spencer 6.1 Introduction 99 6.2 Methodologies and their application 104 6.3 Storminess and the cliff record 106 6.4 Case study: Soft rock cliff geology and responses to storms 110 6.5 Modelling shoreline retreat for cliffed coasts and the incorporation of storminess 115 6.6 Future storm impacts on clifflines under accelerated sea-level rise and changing storminess 117 6.7 Conclusions 119 Acknowledgements 119 References 119 7 Storms in Coral Reefs 127 Ana Vila-Concejo and Paul Kench 7.1 Introduction 127 7.2 Geomorphic units of reefs 129 7.2.1 Reefs as ecomorphodynamic structures 130 7.2.2 Unique interactions of storm waves with coral reefs 132 7.3 Storms on the forereef: Role of spurs and grooves 134 7.3.1 Destructive effects of storms in the forereef and spur and groove 135 7.3.2 Constructive effects of storms in the forereef 136 7.4 Storms on the reef flats: Development of rubble flats and rubble spits 136 7.4.1 Waves on the reef flats 136 7.4.2 Destructive effects of storms on reef flats 136 7.4.3 Constructive effects of storms on reef flats 137 7.5 Storms on the backreef: Sand aprons, reef islands and beaches 139 7.5.1 Sand aprons 139 7.5.2 Reef islands 139 7.6 Conclusion 145 Acknowledgements 145 References 145 8 Storm Clustering and Beach Response 151 Nadia Senechal, Bruno Castelle and Karin R. Bryan 8.1 Introduction 151 8.2 Storm clustering: Genesis and definitions 153 8.2.1 Genesis 153 8.2.2 Definitions 154 8.3 Approaches used to assess storm clustering impact on coasts 156 8.3.1 Data collection 156 8.3.2 Numerical models 157 8.4 Beach response to storm cluster 159 8.4.1 Bar dynamics under storm clustering 159 8.4.2 Morphological feedback 160 8.4.3 The dynamic equilibrium concept 162 8.4.4 Water level 164 8.4.5 Recovery periods 165 8.5 Conclusions 167 References 167 9 Overwash Processes: Lessons from Fieldwork and Laboratory Experiments 175 Ana Matias and Gerhard Masselink 9.1 Introduction 175 9.1.1 Overwash definition 175 9.1.2 Occurrence of overwash 177 9.1.3 Relevance of overwash 180 9.2 Methods to study overwash processes 180 9.2.1 Fieldwork measurements 180 9.2.2 Laboratory experiments 181 9.3 Hydrodynamic processes during overwash 183 9.3.1 Oceanographic conditions 183 9.3.2 Hydraulics of overwash flows 183 9.4 Morpho-sedimentary dynamics by overwash processes 185 9.4.1 Morphological changes induced by overwash 185 9.4.2 Morphodynamic processes during overwash 187 9.5 Conclusion 189 Acknowledgements 190 References 190 10 Modeling the Morphological Impacts of Coastal Storms 195 Ap van Dongeren, Dano Roelvink, Robert McCall, Kees Nederhoff and Arnold van Rooijen 10.1 Introduction 195 10.1.1 Empirical models 196 10.1.2 Process-based models 197 10.1.3 Process-model applications 201 10.1.4 Operational models 209 10.2 Outlook 209 Acknowledgements 210 References 210 11 Preparing for the Impact of Coastal Storms: A Coastal Manager-oriented Approach 217 Jose Jimenez, Clara Armaroli and Eva Bosom 11.1 Introduction 217 11.2 Coastal vulnerability assessment framework 219 11.2.1 General framework 219 11.2.2 How to characterize storm-induced hazards 219 11.2.3 How to measure the vulnerability 221 11.2.4 How to select the probability to be analyzed 222 11.2.5 The Catalonia coastal vulnerability assessment framework 223 11.3 Coastal early warning systems 227 11.3.1 Generalities 227 11.3.2 Coastal EWSs 228 11.3.3 The Emilia-Romagna coastal early warning system 228 11.4 Conclusion 234 Acknowledgements 235 References 235 12 Assessing Storm Erosion Hazards 241 Roshanka Ranasinghe and David Callaghan 12.1 Introduction 241 12.2 The diagnostic conundrum 242 12.3 Quantifying storm erosion volumes for coastal management/planning 243 12.3.1 Coastal profile model application with Extrapolated Wave Exceedance Characteristics (EWEC) 243 12.3.2 Coastal profile model application with the Synthetic Design Storm (SDS) approach 245 12.3.3 The Joint Probability Method (JPM) approach 246 12.3.4 Corbella and Stretch (CS) approach 248 12.4 Application of storm erosion volume estimates in coastal management/planning 250 12.5 Conclusions and recommendations 251 Acknowledgments 254 References 254 Conclusions and Future Perspectives 257 Index 259

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• Limnologia (água doce)
• Deltas, estuários, regiões costeiras
• Desastres naturais
• Meteorologia e climatologia